"Vegetables for the table, broccoli rabe, fresh green beans, I also have spinach,'' she says. "Our pasta, we have linguine, penne or angel hair. If you do clams, we'll do a white sauce or red sauce. This, their opening gambit as a couple, is a triumph, with a long, open kitchen garlanded with cookery books, high tables at the front and seating at the back. There is plenty of natural light from Brixton's streets, wealthier and whiter than when I cycled round here as a kid. But the idea popular online that this is a betrayal of Brixton is garbage.
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